Spirit Bears of British Columbia
As my mammal photography list dwindles, I sometimes stumble upon potential targets which are so unique and overlooked that I immediately investigate how to maximize my chances of doing them photographic justice. Javan rhinos, panthers, wooly mountain tapirs, and luecisitic black bears come to mind. All are achievable, but with time restraints I started knocking off the ones which are less logistically challenging. South East Asian and Africa require infectious prophylaxis and timely flights. British Columbia, on the other hand, is a direct flight from Phoenix. Tacking on an additional 1.5hr flight and you’re in Klemtu, the heart of the Great Bear rainforest. It’s part of the larger Pacific temperate rainforest ecosystem, which is the largest coastal temperate rainforest in the world, and a stronghold for the majestic, often elusive, spirit bear.
The spirit (Kermode) bear habitat ranges from the southeastern Alaska to the northern tip of Vancouver island. The great bear rainforest hosts around 100 of the 400 existing white bears - though my associate, Charles Munn III, has evidence of one in a northern Midwest state, but that’s another story…
The guides at the lodge reported few sightings last season and only one recent sighting within the past two wks. Skittish at best, so maintaining an indiscernible disposition was requested. A 20-30min hike through lush forest leading to river bank opposed by a collection of mutilated salmon bodies - occasionally picked apart by ravens and stellar jays- scattered along the adjacent rocky shore. The spirit bear’s most recent fishing location. Above the shore was dense forest which within a few minutes revealed the bear as it slowly returned to catch its next meal. Eyes fixated on the River with one paw positioned at its surface awaiting an inexhaustible delivery. No successful catches, but the abundance of discarded carcasses was sufficient to satisfy its overindulgence. This continued for several hours until it decided to further explore the island for a more accommodating fishing spot. The bear was encountered twice more during my week. Both were short lasting at various locations on the island.
The lodge organized boat excursions to various river systems. The mainland destinations hosted ecosystems suitable for grizzlies while Kermode bears inhabited the western islands. The grizzly estuaries were overrun with rapidly maturing or dead salmon. Spawning season coming to an end is what drew the bears from higher ground. Often mothers with cubs were seen fishing. The cubs, in between jostling and jousting, would tussle over the most desired bits. Observing the feasting illustrated the bear’s preferences; Some preferred only the roe, others devoured the whole fish, while some preferred brains and skin. The pickier the safer as the salmon often have parasites. Their powerful sense of smell can detect the salmon with tapeworms thus avoid any potential morbidity. At one point, while cruising along in a zodiac, we found a mom and two cubs within 3-4 meters relentlessly devouring salmon. Cranium crushing, skin slicing, roe rummaging, and brain suckling created quite a spectacle. It was my daughter’s birthday which, I think, will leave a lasting impression and remain embedded in her memory.
The waters were saturated with a selection of cetaceans and pinnipeds. Humpbacks were often found bubble netting - a behavior in which multiple whales dive and corral herring into a large school then forcibly launch themselves into the fish ending with a thunderous explosion of 17 ton bodies out from the sea with mouths open engulfing hundreds of minuscule fish. I did not witness orcas, but another boat reported that had seen a group of them unsuccessfully hunting a sea lion. Fin whales, harbor seals, and porpoises were sometimes encountered.
Spirit Bears, check; glizzlies, check. What’s next? Well, while in japan tracking giant salamanders in Yonago, I learned of glacier bears - a blueish hued black bear found in the same territory of the spirit bears. Less chartered territory and more inconspicuous, it sounds like something worth pursuing. I just need to find a suitable glacier…
October 2023
