It began after I contacted trusty ol’ Charles, the South American wildlife specialist, about my upcoming layover in Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas is the gateway to the Chilean Patagonia- though Puerto Natales is closer. I’ve visited this part of the world 2.5yrs earlier in search for pumas just outside Torres del Paine national park. However this time the majestic felines were not my objective. 

Several months earlier Charles invited a group of “associates” to his latest wildlife endeavor “Bearadise,” on the border of Lake Clark National Park in Alaska. We had an opportunity to pick each other’s brains of potential future wildlife destinations. A lot of tit for tat and jockeying for dominance before I informed him that I will return to PA this fall prior to venturing off to Antarctica. I informed him that I’ll need his access to visit a private farm 45mins north of PA to photograph Andean condors in flight, the world’s largest flying land bird. 

Organizing this trip would prove to be tricky. Due to covid 19 several new obstacles would create a last minute conundrum which made acquiring permission to enter Chile challenging. 1st, the Chilean mobility pass, an imperative document for entry. I received an email from Antarctica staff in early October about completing it as soon as possible because estimated certification times have taken 26-30 days. It was now November 7th. Date of departure was planned for 11/20 and I had yet to complete the application. That’s about 13 days shy of the estimated minimal turn around time. Whoops. I’m a glass 1/2 full type of guy so I knew things would work out. Either way, I told the Antarctica staff to postpone my trip by 1 week which will allow more time for it to get processed. 2nd, Charles and I would have to create a rough draft of a potential itinerary. Were condors enough? Absolutely not! 2.5yrs ago I was situated by “the towers” in Torres del Paine. A beautiful target, but the national park hosts a more attractive site, Cuernos del Paine or the “Horns,” a jagged range which I consider more beautiful. 

Prior to flying to Antarctica all guests required a minimum of 5 negative covid tests. The first was to be taken upon arrival at the airport and then 4 subsequent ones each following day, maybe around midday. Times were strict which would make a return trip to TDP very tight as it takes 4hrs to reach the destination. 

3rd, will I return to PA in the future? Should  I cancel my trip to TDP to adhere to excessive testing protocols? Naw. Carpe diem! You only live once so take advantage of every opportunity. I told Anita, my Antarctica liaison, that I had a mandatory zoom meeting which won’t end until 3pm Chilean time. She agreed to reschedule my test. I was free and Charles and I planned my pick up at 1030pm in order to reach the “horns” before the 5am sunrise. 

After getting my upon arrival covid test I was greeted by my guide from 2.5yrs ago, Mauricio. PA is a small town and everyone knows each other so he and my taxi driver greeted each other with a bear hug and joyous endearments. Maurico’s car was stocked with snacks and he had his stimulant laced maté tea to get him through the night.

After 4hrs of driving we arrived about 1hr before sunrise. I staked out positions for best shots and settled on a gravelly beach with an angle which blocked the lights of a hotel at the base of the mountain. I rattled off a couple tests shots to determine my composition. ISO 100 on the gfx 100 with the 23mm. Shots ranged from 20-30s. I think the composition worked- low angle with a foreground of water surrounding rocks and the “horns” in the background.

At 3pm I met Anita for my 2nd covid test. Her first words were “how was Torres del paine?” contemptuously. Haha! The driver, Maurico’s friend, must have snitched!! Disadvantages of living in a small town. I guess some people are only good at blindly following rules.

In the afternoon we visited the condor cliffs. 2.5yrs ago We went on a quiet morning with minimal breeze. The conditions allowed for close up shots perched along the edge with fall colors illuminating the background. Few were in the air. Maurico warned me that things would be different and I should expect more opportunities to the shoot birds in flight. He also warned that I should come prepared with multiple layers and a windbreaker as the wind will be strong. I only wore a cotton hoodie and conversion pants. He thought it was amusing and said, “you don’t wear a jacket to the condors cliffs, what’s next? Running naked in Antarctica?!” Upon reaching the peak I was greeted by a strong 35mph gust which blew me to the ground. The same gust which the condors rode while hovering in the sky. We counted over 80. I spent 3hrs shooting mostly with my camera pointing downwards to avoid high contrast against the white clouds and bright sun. 

Didn’t plan on returning to punta arenas, but life is unpredictable. By the time I left Maurico was in the process of convincing me to return winter 2023 when the big 150kg male pumas hunt at lower altitudes. Maybe I’ll bring my kid…

December 2021